Europe’s sleeper train network has woken up. Photo / Getty Images
Fuelled by a demand for more sustainable alternatives to short-haul flights, Europe’s sleeper-train network is having a revival, writes Frances Carruthers.
Perhaps it’s the novelty of being able to drift off in one city and wake up in an entirely different one – and often in a different country, too.
Or maybe it’s the fact that a sleeper train, while slower and often more expensive than flying, allows you to really experience the distance you’re travelling, gazing out at the scenery and watching how it changes as you glide past.
Whatever it is, there’s a certain kind of magic to travelling by overnight train, which is perhaps why this retro mode of transport is having a renaissance across Europe. From budget to blowout, historic to brand-new, here are six of the best.
Nicknamed the ‘Arctic Circle Express’, this epic 729km journey is Norway’s longest continuous rail route. It slices its way up the slender country’s spine, starting from the fjord-side city of Trondheim and ending in the Arctic Circle outpost of Bodo – the newlyappointed European Capital of Culture 2024.
Departing just after 11pm, the 10-hour trip takes you through rolling hills and fjords, alongside historic World War II sites and colourful fishing towns before hurtling into the barren, rocky expanses of the Saltfjellet mountain range. At around 6.30am, it crosses the Arctic Circle – as announced by the train’s loudspeaker – where snow lingers even through the summer, and you might spot reindeer if you’re lucky.
It’s worth going around midsummer to experience the region’s legendary midnight sun, although be prepared to sacrifice some sleep to take in the views. Tickets can be booked through SJ Nord, with three options (standard seats, reclining seats and sleeper compartments), the cheapest of which starts at around $80.
Since its inaugural trip between Paris and Istanbul in 1919, the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express has become the epitome of luxury in long-distance rail travel. Today, its century-old carriages have been meticulously restored, allowing passengers to be teleported back to the glitz and glamour of the Roaring Twenties. The route between Paris and Rome, which was relaunched in 2022 following a 14-year hiatus, is a fittingly romantic way to travel between two of Europe’s most romantic cities.
Departing Paris at 5pm, passengers can enjoy an opulent four-course meal paired with sommelier-selected wines, before heading to the bar for a cocktail alongside the sound of the grand piano.
When it’s time for bed, sleeper options range from Twin Cabins with banquettes (starting at $7330 per person) to a Grand Suite, which includes a 24-hour butler and private dining in your cabin (starting at $21,090 per person). In the morning, there’s a sumptuous breakfast in bed, before the train arrives in Rome at 1pm.
The joy of the Caledonian Sleeper is in its contrasts: you’ll fall asleep just after leaving the bright lights of London behind, and awaken a few hours later to the brooding, atmospheric landscapes of the Scottish Highlands.
This renowned overnight journey, which has a history going back more than 150 years, had a $300 million upgrade in 2019, with the addition of hotel-style rooms with double beds and ensuite bathrooms.
There are two routes to choose from: the Lowlander, linking London with Glasgow and Edinburgh, and the Highlander, travelling between the English capital and Aberdeen, Inverness and Fort William. Both are beautiful, but the latter packs in more dramatic highland scenery.
The final destination, Fort William, is located at the foot of Ben Nevis, so it’s the perfect base from which to explore Scotland’s highest peak.
Lastly, don’t miss out on the dining car – which serves up traditional Scottish dishes including haggis, ‘neeps and tatties’ and of course, a fine selection of Scotch whiskies. Fares start from around $115 for a seat, $457 for a Classic Cabin, $560 for a Club en-suite and $880 for a Double en-suite.
Passing through five countries (Switzerland, Liechtenstein, Austria, Slovenia and Croatia) and lasting 15 hours, the Zurich to Zagreb sleeper takes you on an epic voyage through Central Europe.
The train departs Zurich at 7.40pm, and you’ll spend the next few hours gazing at mountain scenery plucked straight from a postcard as you glide through northern Switzerland. A few hours later you’ll cross the border into the tiny alpine principality of Liechtenstein, before the train begins its long stint through western Austria and into Slovenia.
As darkness falls, retreat for some shut-eye in your couchette (a basic bunk in a four- or six-bed compartment) or sleeping car (a one, two or three-bed compartment with proper beds and washbasins). Just be sure to wake up before 8am, as the last section between Ljubljana and Zagreb, when the train snakes alongside the Sava River, is one of the most picturesque.
The service is run by Austrian operator OBB Nightjet, with fares starting at around $88 for a bed in a couchette, and $123 for a bed in a sleeper compartment.
Founded by two rail buffs in 2021, Belgian-Dutch start-up European Sleeper is on a mission to revive the continent’s overnight train network – and its first point of call was to introduce a route linking Brussels and Berlin.
The 11-hour trip is a fun and low-cost way to travel between two of Europe’s most beguiling capitals, which haven’t had a direct night train connection in over a decade. There are two to three departures per week, leaving Brussels at 7.22pm and arriving in Berlin at 6.18am.
For budget travellers, there are seats (starting at around $105), but for around $20 extra you might as well get a couchette – a fold-out bunk in a four- or six-berth compartment. Or, opt for a bed in a three-person sleeper compartment (starting at around $265) which includes proper mattresses, plush duvets and in-cabin washbasins.
The train itself is certainly charming, if in a preloved way: its 1950s stainless steel carriages have been refurbished with narrow, yet comfortable, bunks, while old Slovak railway posters adorn the walls.
For a dazzling journey through snow-covered peaks, look no further than this vintage sleeper train.
Launched in December 2023, the Espresso Cadore leaves the Eternal City at 9.15pm every Friday night between December and February, arriving at the Unesco-listed ski town of Cortina d’Ampezzo just in time for breakfast. It’s worth noting that the last hour of the 9.5-hour trip, between Calalzo di Cadore and Cortina d’Ampezzo, is a bus transfer, which is included in the price of the ticket.
Aside from the joy of seeing the sunrise over the Dolomites as you sip your morning coffee, the biggest draw of this unique journey is the train itself.
Decommissioned carriages from the 1980s and 1990s have been given a retro revamp, with wooden panelling, upholstered leather seats and plush carpets. The hotlyanticipated service was established as part of an initiative by Italy’s national rail network, Trenitalia, to encourage visitors to travel more sustainably.
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