Tacking Point Lighthouse in Port Macquarie. Photo / Destination NSW
For a restful seaside holiday where your worries are easily left at home, look no further than Port Macquarie, writes Katie Harris
Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane – these used to be the places I thought of when contemplating a visit to Australia. However, after time spent in the coastal destination of Port Macquarie, north of Sydney, I know there's another spot that deserves a spot on that list. As soon as I touched down in the seaside town, it won me over. Right from its spunky little airport to its beautiful beaches, lush rainforest, laidback vibes and world-class food and wine at every turn, there's much to recommend Port Macquarie for a rejuvenating holiday.
My trip was about wellness. In my daily life, juggling 10 things at once had become the norm, which meant my focus was so split I forgot how to just be, to lose myself in something. By my second day in Port Macquarie, however, I was horse riding at sunset without a worry on my mind – or a thought of what to make for dinner. By the time I left I'd become so completely immersed in the down-to-earth town, I'd stopped checking my phone for news updates or messages, too busy was I getting my hands dirty, being in nature and eating truly great food.
WHERE TO STAY
Waking up to the sunrise over the bay is a lovely way to start each day in Port Macquarie. Nestled on the edge of a marina, and tucked away from the CBD, Sails Port Macquarie by Rydges is everything life back home in the city is not; a perfect spot to relax. There's a certain slowness to the hotel, not by way of service, but more so a feeling of calmness; just a few steps away from my hotel room and I could choose from a heated pool, a spa and lounging chairs. The food at the restaurant is also great, and the staff are always keen to help – even when I was craving a snack outside usual hours.
Another spot to settle into the wellness vibes is Mansfield Estate. Only a short drive out of the town, the luxury private eco-retreat, offers guests stunning views over 240ha of rural land. It's great for group getaways, weddings or other special functions as it is limited to one group at a time. Owner Paul Mansfield has recently expanded the options with a tiny house eco-friendly couples escape.
WHERE TO EAT
Many of the town's best eateries pride themselves on top-notch seafood but there are plenty of options for all tastes, including those who are meat-free. When it comes to breakfast you can't go past Little Turkey at Port Marina. It has a menu of authentic Turkish cuisine, with to-die-for seating options that will leave your Instagram looking fly. I loved the Turkish bread, cheeses and desserts so much I took some away to eat later.
Also at the top of my must-eat list is Twotriplefour, on the outskirts of town within the lush Cassegrain Wines Estate. It's a local paddock-to-plate eatery with a focus on championing quality seasonal produce and carefully crafted wines. If you're looking for a slower spot to pace out your trip, you'll find it at Twotriplefour.
Those wanting something in the CBD should check out both Zebu and Stick Bar. Zebu is vibrant, the food is fresh and the service is unparalleled. My vegetarian main was the best gnocchi I've ever tasted. And I eat it as if it's going extinct.
Cosy and inviting, Stick Bar is known for pushing the boat out when it comes to flavours – give the one-of-a-kind curry cocktail a go. Being a yakitori bar means much of the menu comes out on skewers. However, there's so much more than tofu on a stick and the grilled eggplant dish made steak look like a side dish. It's the best place for a light bite before town, or a pre-dinner cocktail.
Diners wanting a classic brunch should look no further than LV's on Clarence. It's casual, wholesome and a great place to try out local fare at a good price. There's everything you'd expect to see in a big city cafe but with a Port Macquarie twist. I also liked Black Market Bagels, which is great for the tourist on the go. They're constantly testing out new flavours, including a Frootloop bagel, but always stock the trusty classics too.
WHAT TO DO
To get some historical context on the region, make sure you check out the Wakulda show, projected on to the Port Macquarie Historic Courthouse every night. The 10-minute long experience tells the story of the area's rich history, from the traditional guardians of the land, the Birpai people, right through to the Bicentenary of European settlement in April 2021.
If you're an animal lover, you won't want to miss the Port Macquarie Koala Hospital. Some of the areas surrounding Port Macquarie were hit hard by bushfires in the past few years, and one of the most affected animals were koalas. On the front lines trying to save the animals were workers and volunteers from the hospital, who laboured around the clock to save as many koalas as they could. A visit here was a memorable experience - I had no idea how vulnerable koalas were, and the struggles the volunteers face when trying to rehabilitate the animals. As a visitor, you can walk around and meet the koalas who are too injured to be released back into the wild. My favourite little guy was named CW – he lost an eye and suffered brain injuries after being hit by a car – who had a heap of personality and put on a little show as we walked around the facility.
Staying with the animal theme, you can't go past horse riding. I completely lost myself in the enjoyment of a trot along Grants Beach. The riders from Hastings River Horse Riding took our group out at sunset for a stroll – it was so calming and effortless. Our guides were knowledgeable and made sure everyone was safe and comfortable while riding.
As art is not high on the list of my talents, I was a bit nervous to try local ceramic artist Aleisa Byfield's pottery class. But once I sat down in her studio my fears were put to rest and it was a fun excursion to add to the agenda.
Hikers will enjoy the Tacking Point Lighthouse, which is just a short drive from the CBD. There's a stunning walk there and if you're up at dawn there are spectacular views. However, if you're not up for a walk, you can drive to the lighthouse and still get the same view.
Port Macquarie sits at the mouth of Hastings River, so a cruise on this patch of water is a bit of a must. I got to see the town from the perspective of Port Jet Cruise Adventures, which navigated the river and showed parts of the area I would have otherwise missed. Many visitors get more than just a cruise, with dolphins, turtles, osprey and sea eagles often swinging by to say hi.
Checklist
PORT MACQUARIE
DETAILS
For more information on Sails Port Macquarie, go to rydges.com/accommodation/port-macquarie-nsw/sails-port-macquarie
For more things to see and do in the area go to portmacquarieinfo.com.au
Check the latest border restrictions in each state and territory before travelling. For more information visit australia.com
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