Walking round Okarito with Paula brings the area's rich and turbulent history to life.
Up on the trig hill, after a pleasant climb through the bush, part of it along what used to be the packhorse trail for bringing in supplies, there's a wonderful view of Okarito Lagoon.
In its heyday, this was the third-largest port on the West Coast, with direct sailings to Australia, until 1910 when the road opened the only access for tourists heading to the white heron colony at Whataroa and the glaciers at Franz Joseph.
These days, the only vessels are locals going fishing or tourists cruising round in kayaks or the Okarito Boat Tours craft enjoying the magnificent bird life - including elegant white herons, goony spoonbills, nippy kingfishers - and the beautiful bush.
Back down in the village, you can explore a corner of wetland thanks to a newly built boardwalk - I spied one of Okarito's famous whitebait - learn more about the village's history in the recently restored store and savour a very good coffee at the building that houses the boat and kayak tour operations.
Sometimes, apparently, you can also meet Okarito's most famous resident, writer Keri Hulme.
She didn't turn up while I was enjoying my coffee and I've since read that she's leaving, but I was able to watch the antics of a large family of paradise ducks which has taken up residence on a section opposite.
"They seemed to have really settled down here," says Paula cheerfully. "This summer they raised several chicks, so the family's getting bigger. It's rather lovely to watch them."
CHECKLIST
Getting there: Air New Zealand flies to Westport and Hokitika. Thrifty Car Rentals can deliver cars to both airports and several other points down the coast.
Where to stay: Franz Josef Glacier Country Retreat is a grand country lodge facing Lake Mapourika.
What to do: If you'd like to kayak the lagoon, see Okarito Nature Tours. Okarito Boat Tours offers boat tours of the lagoon and walking tours of the village.
Further information: See westcoastnz.com.
Jim Eagles went to Okarito with help from Tourism West Coast and Air New Zealand.
